Thing o matic maker bot ironman
At the time, he suggested you experiment with raising the temperature a bit. You can slow this down a little bit by changing the parameter from 20 to Their default is 90, so try The mask is a fun way to show the improved print quality you can achieve by installing the latest software and firmware and tweaking a few parameters. With MakerBot Desktop 3. The Software Engineering teams are working with others to tackle this project.
If you do put your computer to sleep while MakerBot Desktop is working, we recommend restarting background services when you wake your computer up. You can do this by going to the Services menu and selecting Restart Background Services. For the finale of the first season, we moved one step closer to finding out. What we saw seemed almost too real: Behind the Special Effects. Through a unique combination of artistry and leading technologies, Legacy Effects create everything from animatronics to puppets to futuristic suits to robots to costumes and more.
The producers from Colony came to Legacy Effects about doing an exoskeleton in July of on a tight budget. For suits, 3D printing can remove the costly, time-consuming steps of casting and molding done in the past.
Creating 3D models on a computer also ensures a design is precisely symmetrical and will move properly. Even though the company has industrial 3D printers, printing the suit with these would cost tens of thousands of dollars in materials. He needed a reliable solution with a large build volume, sturdy affordable filament, and remote monitoring. Since the Z18 prints with PLA, it costs much less and is sturdy.
Once Lopes chose the Z18, he printed all the pieces of the exoskeleton in less than two weeks. In fact, a few of the pieces took more than sixty hours to print. For Lopes, remote monitoring with the MakerBot Mobile app is actually very important. After the Z18, the talented crew of artists at Legacy Effects then painted, polished, and touched-up the suit.
They also installed electronics, added in the visor, and attached any fabric. The company also gives clients like directors or producers inexpensive 3D-printed maquettes. These mini-models give clients a feel for how the full-scale end-product of a creature or suit will look in light from different angles for filming.
Additionally, they can speed-up the client approval process as an idea goes from 3D design to maquette to production-ready piece. On the topic of 3D printing, co-founder Alan Scott sees this process going full-circle: The Making Curve Desktop 3D printing is evolving swiftly and MakerBot is working continually and iteratively to improve both hardware and software.
This process involves experimentation and adjustments as the printers, and the software that drives them, are repeatedly fine-tuned. MakerBot employees from all over the company get involved and are constantly providing input as they work with the printers at or near their desks.
Back in , Joey built a MakerBot Thing-O-Matic over the course of a couple of weekends and he and his son quickly became addicted to Thingiverse. Massive Means Different From his office stocked with large 3D prints, Joey had a few things to note right off the bat.
It can print for hours and hours, and even days, depending on the model you are printing and settings that you have selected. Print quality at larger volumes is a main focus and here are a few things I have been testing and have seen some quality results. Some folks have seen some under-extrusion from time to time and temperature plays a big role in laying down each layer.
If the model does have a lot of jumps, you may see a bit more stringiness between gaps — so your mileage may vary. To try out this idea, create a custom profile of your own.
You can even swap the filament while the extruder is running if you're fast enough. We've completely overhauled the drive system to give the optimum positioning accuracy. This is probably overkill, but you can trust that the axes will be sturdy. We've also switched to self-aligning, sintered brass bearings. These are very forgiving to DIY assembly and provide a nice, smooth motion on the steel shafts. Last, but not least we've completely replaced the Z axis with a stepper driven, cantilevered stage.
Guided by two of the linear shafts, this completely eliminates any Z wobble and results in nicely aligned layers. This means the layer changes are almost completely imperceptible and reduces blobbing significantly.
The new electronics have been designed to make the printing experience even easier than ever. We've also added full endstop support so that you never need to touch the XYZ axes ever again.
When you hit print, the machine will automatically home itself, heat up, and begin printing. All you have to do is sit back and relax while your MakerBot does all the work. Living in the future is awesome. Oh yeah, and the electronics are all inside, so you don't have wires dangling everywhere. Full documentation is located on the MakerBot wiki at http: Please Login to Comment. I was given one of the original first run Thing-O-Matics from a co-worker. I am trying to find another user that might have the same unit and would share their settings with me?
Can you please post a photo of it. I will help narrow down the search as to your exact configuration. Try uploading to google drive and posting a link from there. Also look for a MK version on the acrylic of the extruder. Does it look like this MK4 http: I would suggest you upgrade to sailfish as soon as possible because it allows you to do a lot more with the printer. It's just a suggestion for down the road. Replicator G still works but its horribly outdated now.
Ok, I downloaded and ran the replicator G sailfish 40 R33 software and it attempted an update that appears to have succeeded does that mean I now have sailfish firmware? It means you are now running sailfish. I wonder if anyone from MakerBot still reads these comments. I remember wanting one of these so bad back in the day. Any thought about making these kits available again?
I'd love to build one as a fun project. Just a thought, I mean even Nintendo is re-releasing the original again: I wonder who was the last person to build a Thing-O-Matic.
Please reply to this comment if you have recently built one, just curious! High there everyone, Im brand new here although i have been lurking for the past few weeks. I was wondering if anyone who has made this could give me an estimate as to how many grams of filament was used. The reason i ask is because my university has a printer, and i was going to print this one on it, but they charge by the gram on projects. Im trying to decide if it would be more cost effective to just buy my own spool and use it with their printer.
Thank you for your time! The link provided for the instructions of the Thing-O-Matic is not working. Could someone check and help? Hi, I have a Come3d printer that is based on thing-o-matic, but the frame is in mdf. I want to make a acrylic frame i have a laser cutter , but which acrylic I have to use with this model?
Hi, I don't know if this sounds stupid but has anyone tried to cut the lasercut parts by hand e. Hi, I don't know if you still need the parts, but i found the Motor on http: I run a model shop, and plywood is often used in models, mainly plains and trains, so if you can't find what you need at a diy shop, try a model shop. Where would you like design issues to be submitted? There are some interference problems with the ABP that it would be good to address in the next version.
Hey guys, I'm looking to get this cut using Ponoko. Has anyone done this already? Do you have the templates in EPS format? If not then I'll do it and share here. I was just wondering if you could provide the information on the X and Y belting an pulleys.
It seems to be missing from the parts list. The belt is a Gates GT2 timing belt popular series with the code: It is likely that the be lt is a custom order, so buying the exact one from another source may be a challenge.
I've searched extensively and was unable to find where to buy the exact belt. You may have to modify the design, find a compatible belt, order from makerbot, or custom order the same one. As for the pully, if you find one with the same pitch, nearly the same width, and diameter, you shoud be good to go.
SDP sells both sizes. The belts go by number of teeth. In all a couple of minutes of web surfing and you's have everything you need. Be sure to flip the search switch in the upper left to metric or inch based on the bore size you need.
I'm working on a steel-belted version of the Thing-o-matic ABP to address issues of "curling" of objects due the extreme flexibility of the plastic ABP belt. Any idea where I can find the ABP 2. I found the parts for the Cupcake ABP v1. E acrylic middle panel are very different from each other E appears to match current build instructions on makerbot wiki?
Maybe I meant Rev. D instead of Rev. E, though I could have sworn it was Rev. E when I looked at this page yesterday At any rate, there are cuts drawn on top of each other and I'm trying to figure out the actual placement of the slot for the stepper