Makerbot replicator 2 spec sheet
Please Login to Comment. I have a Makerbot Rep 2 that is having an odd issue that i'm looking for some advice on. I have a run of these plates that started out great but all the sudden went south on us.
We see gaps between the passes on the roof pass over the infill, sometimes when its building the floor as well. We have tore makerbot replicator 2 spec sheet the extruder hoping to find something other than the drive wheel slightly offset from filament there was nothing makerbot replicator 2 spec sheet there. This is a new extruder assembly as well. I listed print specs below.
Increased temp to deg C with no change. Tried multiple spools of material with no change. Looks like we got makerbot replicator 2 spec sheet spools of bad material, all from the same lot number. For PLA, I never print that hot. Have you used this brand before and what is the range? For crappy Makergeek - you will need to print at C - hopefully you aren't using that stuff.
For roof and floor - try 1mm. Raft to model distance I keep at. This is makerbot true red PLA. First two spools went great next 3 got worse and worse. First two are from different lot so starting to think bad material. Went to deg and no change. Tried increasing roof and floor to 1. This is a rectangular tray so harder it sticks to build tray the better so it doesn't warp or peel up during print. Call Makerbot and complain and they'll probably ship you new spools.
I've done that once so far. My go to is their cool gray. Thinking maybe we have bad material. Yeah, I've kept clear of that newer version too. Wish I had makerbot replicator 2 spec sheet answer for you. We are makerbot replicator 2 spec sheet to try going down to deg C and see what happens. I don't mind issues when they make sense! If you can afford it, Simplify3D is worth every penny. The Buildtak magnetic platform thing is not what I would call ideal.
Better to get an aluminum or glass replacement for the OEM frame and learn to use Aquanet. PLA should work fine from to C. At you can get heat creep upward on the extruder which in turn can cause a clog. Are you still using the plastic idler arm feeding the filament into the extruder? If so it can and does soften then mishape which will make your extruder slip real easy.
We talk alot about the Rep2 and upgrading it on the podcast since I have 3 of them. Already tried simplify3D, fairly nice software but did not help the issue. Buildtak sheets are amazing, no issues on single sheet with large parts in the makerbot replicator 2 spec sheet same position over and makerbot replicator 2 spec sheet again, problem with flex plate is it does curl a fair amount when a large part starts cooling down so that's the only negative thing i have on buildtak.
I still have the plastic idler arm and was just looking for aluminum upgrade, any suggestions? Over the weekend we found a broken x axis motor cable which came on suddenly, Thought maybe this was the mysterious issue and this would fix everything Nope, after we soldered cable back together we still have same issue. Also starting to notice more clicking out of extruder motor and see the extrusion issue show up more when the gantry is in the back left when looking at it from the front, thought maybe cable going to extruder motor was pinched but haven't been able makerbot replicator 2 spec sheet find any issues yet.
Any other thoughts on this? We tried different material lot numbers with no change. Verified temp readings with thermometer. Reset everything to defaults and created new programs with no luck, it will print a 1.
Thingiverse is NOT the ideal resource for info. I recommend you go to the Google Group titled "Makerbot users": You get the same effect if you held the filament while running "Load Filament" and kept it from feeding into the extruder. If you do not get the Stutter while holding it then the extruder's hobbed gear is slipping.
I assume it is not slipping. Why is it stuttering? There could be a number of reasons:. If you want to upgrade makerbot replicator 2 spec sheet idler arm there are many options. Simply google Replicator 2 extruder upgrade and you'll find them. However, if you want the very finest upgrade then lookup Bondtech, contact them from their website and ask Martin for the Rep2 kit that Andy talked about in his podcast. I suggest you do quite a bit of research first.
Makerbot Replicator 2 Roof Issues. Jasonr39 Dec 6, Jasonr39 - in reply to Jasonr39 Dec 8, Jasonr39 - in reply to alpokemon Dec 7, VEXrobots - in reply to Jasonr39 Dec 7, Which slicer are you using? Just passed hrs on my Rep2 and never saw this sort of issue. Jasonr39 - in reply to ukcat Dec 6, Makerbot Desktop Version 3. TobyCWood - in reply to Jasonr39 Makerbot replicator 2 spec sheet 12, Jasonr39 - in reply to TobyCWood Dec 12, There could be a number of reasons: Some filament cooled and hardened at the tip inside the nozzle thereby not letting the stuff flow If this is why, then the extrusion flow during "Load Filament" will not go straight down Clean the nozzle using a guitar string.
If the stutter happens only during the makerbot replicator 2 spec sheet layer it is due to the build plate being too close to makerbot replicator 2 spec sheet nozzle If it happens during the print it could be from the print lifting up off the Buildtak and the part is pushing into the nozzle and blocking it seriously Buildtak is crap, you just have not seen it yet If there is no lifting off the bed yet it still stutters during a print it could also be from backwash which happens when there is a thin wall and the slicer SW wants to put more plastic in a space where there's makerbot replicator 2 spec sheet enough room.
The temperature of the tube above the hot block is too hot and the cool block that it is threaded through is not doing it's job. IOWs the melt zone is too large. As such the filament in the tube above the hot block goes soft.
When the extruder shoves filament downward into the tube the stuff below is shoved and expands. If this is the problem the clue is the tip of the filament. Unload it carefully and look at the tip. If the filament above the tip is a bit larger in diameter then the filament above it then the stuff went soft and took on the shape of the inside of the metal tube. PLA does not need to be hotter then C.
PLA will extruder at less then C, it just won't stay soft enough to fuse. I suggest printing a 20mm test cube and set your temp to C. If the layers are not fusing then up it to C and try again